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6-3-07 Pulled up to Cojo at 9 AM & turned
on the weather radio to listen to the buoys...Cojo was flat
(a few dribblers), but not much. Just when the Santa Monica
Buoy reported 5 feet at 15 seconds, Mike remarked...."Did
that REALLY say 5' at 15...?" And no sooner did Mike say
that when a 10 wave set rolled through, with the last 4 waves
being head high & hollow.
Not another soul around...Mike & I surfed until 10 AM, when
another inflatable with 2 guys pulled up & we surfed all
day (3 PM), the 4 of us...truly remarkable for a Sunday in Southern
California. As the tide came in, the waves got mushier &
smaller...(as the photos show). After I burned out, I took the
photos...(the photos don't do justice to our morning session)...hollow
& head high!